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Le chef étoilé du restaurant Onor au décor marin prépare une carte originale innovante avec des desserts inédits à Paris.
C'est la table engagée – en faveur de la formation des jeunes en particulier – que Thierry Marx a ouverte en février 2023. Dans un décor inspiré du monde marin, en lieu et place de ce qui fut autrefois La Marée, le chef étoilé propose une carte innovante, travaillée notamment avec le physico-chimiste Raphaël Haumont. On y retrouve quelques plats signature marxiens : la soupe à l'oignon en trompe-l'œil, le risotto de soja, la raviole en bras croisés (revisitée)… La surprise s'invite à chaque nouvelle assiette. Une expérience gustative et sensorielle étonnante !
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TLDR: The vegetarian menu is almost entirely vegan and also lacks significantly in vegetable proteins and/or grains. The main dishes are not very creative and lack flavor, despite excellent presentation. The price of the menu is great, but the wine is expensive. The service is good. Overall, we left dissatisfied because the vegetarian menu did not seem to be at the level expected of a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Price and Facts:
We are a couple, and we each had a vegetarian menu with wine pairing. The menu cost 80 euros, the wine 65 euros, and water 4 euros per person. During the booking, we requested a vegetarian menu and had a clear exchange about it. We suspect there was a misunderstanding, despite "vegetarian" being a fairly explicit term in English and being asked if we wanted eggs and dairy. Instead, it seemed like we were almost served a vegan menu. The menu was unbalanced, lacking in interesting flavors and textures, and poor in animal and/or plant proteins.
What We Didn't Like:
We didn't much enjoy the wine pairing, three glasses for 65 euros: a sake, a champagne, and a white, which did not pair well with the dishes. Not recommended and expensive. But let's come to the most painful part: most of the dishes, excluding sauces, butter, and desserts, consisted almost solely of vegetables. There's nothing wrong with a vegan menu (I've been vegan for a long time), but it's important to know how to introduce protein-rich, delicious, and/or fatty elements. Or at least some grains. Vegetarian doesn't mean vegetable-only. If, as in our case, a Michelin-starred restaurant offers absolutely no proteins or grains in a menu, that's odd. And even if one wants to offer a vegetable menu, the vegetables need to be well-prepared. In fact, the main dishes we had were mainly raw vegetables or cooked very simply. Almost no fried, roasted, smoked elements, etc. There was a significant lack of the surprise and adventurous pairings expected in a Michelin-starred restaurant.
The worst dish was variously colored carrots cooked by steaming/boiling with lemon, ginger, onions, and a sauce. The dish was unbalanced towards the acidic side, and a bit bland. The carrot was too dominant and not interesting in flavor. Next came a revisited autumn minestrone. This dish was made of typical minestrone vegetables, well presented with potato sauce and tarragon sauce. Unfortunately, the cooking technique for the vegetables seemed the same, all boiled/steamed, with rather ordinary flavors and overpowering sauces. It lacked varying textures, exciting flavors, and creativity. No proteins or legumes in sight. The same was true for the pre-dessert, which was supposed to contain eggplant and basil ice cream. The flavors were not enhanced, the ice cream tasted like mint, and the eggplant was bland. Moreover, if the pre-dessert is meant to connect the main dishes with the dessert, basil and eggplant didn't seem in season, unlike the autumn vegetables used in the previous dishes. It seemed, in short, a limited menu, out of the kitchen's comfort zone, lacking in flavors and textures. Overall, the dining experience did not bring the typical joy associated with a Michelin-starred meal. A pity.
What We Liked:
The location was very beautiful, the service friendly and welcoming, and the open kitchen. We particularly appreciated the trio of appetizers, very colorful and with intense flavor, as well as the bread and the non-risotto risotto. Our overall vegetarian menu included 8 dishes, 4 of which were main courses, really excellent for the price.
L'occasion de vraiment se faire plaisir gustativement à un niveau de prix tout à fait acceptable
J'espère avoir l'occasion d'y retourner prochainement